The path to a career in fine food and wine had an unlikely starting point for the Restaurant Manager at two of Hobart’s most celebrated restaurants.

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What was your childhood like?

I grew up on a small farm just outside of Bothwell, in the centre of Tasmania. Growing up, I didn’t think much about where I’d live and what I’d do, but I knew that I wouldn’t stay in Bothwell - I’m not cut out for living in that small a town! I moved to Hobart when I was 18 years old, to study physics at university. I dropped out after a year and a half, started working at a nightclub, and was managing the venue within a year. I loved the atmosphere and the people - the friendships and camaraderie are instant when you’re the only sober people locked in a nightclub. I caught the hospitality bug there, and - after six years - I began to pursue opportunities to work more closely with food and wine.

You went on to become the General Manager at Hobart’s The Glasshouse Restaurant, including leading the team to winning Tasmania’s Best Wine List, and three Wine Glasses in the Australian Wine List of the Year Awards. What do you love about wine?

Wine is so unique and so broad. There are some consistencies across regions and varietals, but the flavour and texture of one can be so different to another. It makes pairing wine with food so fascinating. All of the wine that we serve at Aløft and Restaurant MARIA is made in small batches, by passionate people who have a really interesting story that we then get to share with our guests. I’ll talk to a guest about wine all night, if they’ll let me.

How did you come to work with the team at Aløft Restaurant and Restaurant MARIA?

After leaving The Glasshouse at the end of 2021, I worked for the Lubiana family, working in the Stefano Lubiana cellar door, managing the pre-opening of Molto Wine Bar, and even spending some time in the winery itself with Steve and Marco. I then had about a year at the Crescent Hotel in North Hobart, where we had the opportunity to do really cool food and wine in a suburban pub. But I eventually missed the style of a finer dining restaurant, so I called Christian [Ryan, Aløft and Restaurant MARIA co-owner] on the recommendation of a mutual friend, who told me that he was looking for a restaurant manager at Aløft. I was really familiar with the restaurant, having worked at Brooke Street Pier previously, and it was just getting better and better. After 13 months as the manager at Aløft, we opened Restaurant MARIA, and I now manage both venues.

What does a day in your work life look like?

Before service starts, I spend time checking that the restaurants are staffed appropriately, tweaking wine lists, catching up with our bar managers and Christian, and getting on top of daily admin tasks. There’s a lot of preparation that goes into each service, but once the doors open, every night is different. I float between Restaurant MARIA and Aløft while guests are being seated, and then fit wherever I’m needed - I might jump into the bar at MARIA, talk to a table about wine, or run food at Aløft. Both venues have a similar service style, and the atmosphere is always buzzy and fun. Working with our team and guests does a lot for charging up my social battery.

What do you love about living in nipaluna/Hobart?

The obvious thing is the really great food and wine scene that’s grown here over the past decade. Good, wholesome people who want to make and serve really good produce have driven that. Guests from the mainland always comment on Hobart’s distinct and genuine service style, and I agree with that sentiment. I think we’ve got more passionate people in hospitality here than anywhere else I’ve visited. I also love the small town vibes. It’s quiet and relaxed, but there’s enough going on without the hustle and bustle of some other capital cities.

What are three must-dos for every visitor to lutruwita/Tasmania?

Definitely Mona, but not just for the museum. The entire grounds and The Source restaurant are worth a visit in their own right. When in Hobart, you should also get to kunanyi/Mt Wellington. It’s pretty special to drive 15 minutes out of the city, and be able to see all of Hobart from the top of the mountain. And you need to get in the car and get out to visit some of our food and wine producers. Go for a drive through the Coal River Valley or along the east coast, and stop in at the farms and high-quality vineyards along the way. Lots of these wines aren’t available in the big bottle shops, and - more often than not - you’ll be able to talk to the owner or winemaker. It’s a really different experience to what you’ll get in the wine regions in other parts of the country.

Where are your favourite local haunts for eats and drinks?

My two favourite restaurants are Fico and Insitut Polaire. Fico serves terrific food, and has been a favourite ever since Garagistes closed. At Institut Polaire, Lou and Nav are serving excellent wine and gin, alongside gorgeous, refined food that’s also unpretentious and approachable. For coffee, I love Shake Coffee Roasters in the northern suburbs, and Bear With Me in South Hobart.

Describe your perfect Sunday in Tasmania.

I’d love to lie on the couch watching true crime and eating pizza! But if I’ve got the energy to get out, I’d make the most of our lowkey lifestyle, with a coffee at Kingston Beach, and then a drink in the sun at Cascade Gardens.

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Q&A: Hedley Monks, Venue Manager