Hello To Hampden Bar & Bistro
An almost 200-year-old former boot repair shop might seem an unlikely candidate for a contemporary European bistro in the heart of Hobart, but its recent makeover and Italian chef have catalysed a transformation into Euro-inspired Hampden Bar & Bistro.
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Since 2018, Chef Matteo Diedhiou and Restaurateur Juliana Monachetti have been cooking and serving Italian fare from their Kingston Beach eatery Zero81 Napoli. Now, the couple have brought the authentic European flavours and hand-stretched pasta for which southern Hobartians have adored them to Hobart’s CBD, opening Hampden Bar & Bistro in an original 1840s premises in Battery Point.
Hampden Bar & Bistro (image: Sammy Jones)
From its cornflower blue exterior, Hampden Bar & Bistro might be any of the other inviting venues along Hampden Road. Step inside, though, and the restaurant quickly earns its bistro moniker. While Juliana and Matteo’s recent renovation has respected the site’s heritage, an undeniably European character now characterises the space, with forest green wall panelling, golden accents, marble-topped tables, and a curated collection of Mediterranean scenes along the walls transporting the diner to shores abroad.
It’s an environment fit for a bona fide European menu, and Chef Matteo - himself born and raised in Naples - has created just that. With a CV spanning continents and Michelin stars, Matteo’s cooking experience began in the family kitchen as a teenager, before travelling the world to hone his craft. After he and Tasmania-born Juliana met in Melbourne, a seachange to the bottom of the world has seen him return to his culinary roots, bringing to both Zero81 Napoli and Hampden Bar & Bistro the influences of his Italian heritage as well as his own European travels.
From Hampden’s small plates selection, anchovy toast lets these love-them-or-hate-them salt bombs do their umami best, settled delicately atop charred sourdough without unnecessary fanfare, and scallops follow a similar approach, served simply - and deliciously - in their shells with a Café de Paris butter that is inexplicably as rich as it is delicate. Also on the small plates menu, gnocco fritto - literally fried dough - is not to be missed. Four perfect pillows of air are a tasty pedestal for salty bresaola and Parmesan, and the use of cutlery is totally optional.
Gnocco fritto, bresaola, parmesan (image: Sammy Jones)
Similarly shareable entrees include a zippy crudo of kingfish with citrus and chilli, and a classic tartare of seasoned Cape Grim beef. The latter is topped with a cured egg yolk that summons a knife or fork into its salty centre to be spilled and mingled.
Cape Grim beef tartare, cured egg yolk, crisps (image: Sammy Jones)
Further along the menu, Hampden’s tight list of mains places the restaurant firmly in territory not frequented by its local trattoria counterparts. True to Matteo’s style, tortellini is rolled in-house, stuffed with a rich duck filling, and served al dente with a glossy truffle sauce. Other mains demonstrate similarly technical cooking - think stuffed quail with chestnuts - and a grill section celebrates Tasmania’s exceptional beef producers, with cuts ranging from a modest eye fillet to a made-for-two 800g dry aged ribeye with accompaniments.
Housemade duck tortellini, burnt butter, truffle sauce (image: Sammy Jones)
Local producers are similarly showcased on Hampden’s drinks list, with an almost exclusively homegrown beer and cider selection, and plenty of excellent Tasmanian wines to boot. Befitting the restaurant’s theme, classic old world varietals - crisp Pouilly-Fumé or savoury Chianti, anyone? - are also covered.
Open for dinner five days a week, and now serving Friday lunch in its sun-drenched front dining room, Hampden Bar & Bistro has added its own European flavour to Hobart’s beautiful Battery Point precinct.
22 Francis Street, Battery Point
Tuesday-Saturday, 5pm-9.30pm (Friday lunch, 12pm-2pm)
Bottom of the World’s experience at Hampden Bar & Bistro was provided courtesy of the venue.
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